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When I booked my Coastal Express trip with Hurtigruten, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect from the Hurtigruten onboard experience. I knew it would be different from the more traditional cruises I’d taken in the past. After all, Hurtigruten ships don’t just operate as cruise ships, they also function as working coastal ferries, transporting passengers, vehicles and cargo along Norway’s rugged coastline.
I expected incredible scenery and exploring port stops, but I found myself wondering: what does daily life at sea on the Coastal Express actually look like?
In this post, I’ll share my personal experience sailing onboard MS Nordkapp, giving you a realistic look at the Hurtigruten onboard experience, from lectures and daily briefings to relaxing between ports and seeing the Northern Lights.
If you’re curious about exploring independently, you can also check out my guide to Things to Do at Hurtigruten Ports Without an Excursion.
And for a full breakdown of the journey, accommodations, food, and costs, don’t miss my honest Hurtigruten Coastal Express Review: Everything You Need to Know Before You Book.
Table Of Contents
A Typical Day at Sea on Hurtigruten
One of the things I loved most about the Hurtigruten onboard experience was how each day fell into a comfortable rhythm. While no two days were exactly the same, especially with changing scenery and port stops, life onboard followed a relaxed flow that made it easy to settle in.
Mornings usually started with a buffet breakfast in the main restaurant, Torget, enjoyed as the ship sailed past fjords and the coastal landscapes. After breakfast, I’d often make my way up to the Explorer Bar on the top deck and settle into one of the comfortable reclining chairs at the very front of the ship, the perfect spot to relax with a hot drink and take in the views before the day’s port stop.
As the day continued, there was typically a mix of time spent exploring ashore and enjoying time onboard. At the main port stop, passengers could either wander independently or join an organised excursion, something I’ve covered in more detail in my guide to exploring Hurtigruten ports independently.
Back onboard in the afternoon, the Expedition Team usually hosted a daily briefing about the following day’s port or, on longer sea stretches, a lecture about the region. I’ll share more about these in the lecture hall section below.
In the evening, as soon as it was dark, attention usually turned to Northern Lights watching when conditions allowed, with many people braving the cold on deck for a chance to catch a glimpse of the aurora. Dinner became another highlight of the day, a relaxed three course meal that felt more like a restaurant experience than typical cruise dining, which I’ve covered in detail in my Hurtigruten dining guide.
Rather than feeling rushed or overly scheduled, daily life onboard felt nicely balanced, while still feeling incredibly rewarding through port exploration and scenic sailing.
Northern Lights Viewing From the Ship
Viewing the Northern Lights quickly became my favourite part of the Hurtigruten onboard experience. At first, I was a little nervous because we didn’t see them at all until our fifth night due to heavy cloud cover. But after that, we were incredibly lucky, spotting the aurora for seven nights in a row right up until our final evening onboard, with each display seeming even more impressive than the last.
There’s something exhilarating about heading out onto the deck, braving the freezing cold and strong winds, and watching the lights dance across the sky above the ship. Some nights the aurora stretched right around us, making it hard to know where to stand to take it all in or where to point your camera for the best photos. On a few evenings, we stayed outside for hours at a time, sometimes as late as 2am, completely mesmerised.
Spectacular northern lights dancing above the Norwegian Sea during a Hurtigruten voyage 
The Northern Lights glowing behind the ship as it sailed through Norway’s Arctic waters
When the Northern Lights were active, the crew usually made announcements to let everyone know it was time to head outside. That said, I’d recommend keeping an eye on the sky yourself too because some of the best displays I saw happened before an announcement was made. Once the alert goes out, the decks can get quite busy, so being early often means better views and easier photos.
Being out at sea, far from city light pollution, is one of the best ways to experience the Northern Lights, and seeing them from the ship was truly unforgettable.
If you’re hoping to photograph the Northern Lights, a tripod makes a huge difference, along with using night mode or long exposure settings if your camera allows it. Dressing warm and windproof is essential when being out on deck. Wearing touchscreen-friendly gloves (trust me, you don’t want to keep taking them off) and a windproof jacket were essential when staying outside for long periods. For other items I’d recommend to be comfortable, I’ve shared what I packed in my Hurtigruten packing guide.
Lecture Hall
Lectures & Presentations
Throughout the voyage, particularly during longer stretches at sea, the expedition team hosted lectures and presentations in the Lecture Hall. These covered a wide range of topics about Norway’s coastline, wildlife and history.
For me, the standout sessions included a talk on the history of Hurtigruten and a photography workshop focused on capturing the Northern Lights.
If you didn’t feel like heading to the Lecture Hall, all lectures and presentations could be streamed live on the TV in your cabin via Channel 5, which was perfect for quieter days or when you wanted to stay cosy.
Daily Briefing
Each day, the expedition team also held a daily briefing in the Lecture Hall to prepare passengers for upcoming port stops and sailing conditions. These briefings covered helpful details such as:
- What to expect at each port
- Recommended things to do during your stop
- Maps and local insights
- Weather forecasts for the day ahead
Like the lectures, the daily briefings were also streamed on Channel 5 in your cabin, making it easy to stay informed even if you didn’t attend in person.
Other Things to Do Onboard
Scenic Lounges & Panoramic Views
The most popular place to relax onboard was easily the Explorer Lounge and Bar. At almost any time of day, you’d find passengers gathered here and I can guarantee there was usually at least one person napping in a reclining chair (I often heard the sound of snoring!).
While it could get busy, there was always space to sit, and it quickly became one of the best places to socialise with other travellers. You could also grab a drink from the bar and settle in by the panoramic windows, soaking up the coastal scenery as the ship sailed along.
Book Exchange
While I packed my Kindle, I actually never read during my Coastal Express voyage as I always found myself occupied with other activities onboard, exploring the ports or making plans for the next day’s adventure.
If you do find some time to read, there’s actually a lovely little book exchange tucked inside the Explorer Lounge on the top deck, with a range of books in different languages.
Board Games & Puzzles
In the same area as the book exchange, you’ll also find a stack of board games available to play, a great way to socialise with fellow passengers.
Puzzles were another very popular activity onboard. Every time I walked through Multe (the bakery and ice cream shop), there were people set up working away at jigsaw puzzles.
Gym
While I had the best intentions, I must admit I didn’t end up using the gym during my trip. If you’re better at sticking to routine than I am, you’ll find the fitness room on deck 7.
It’s small but well equipped, with two treadmills (which offer spectacular views out the windows), two bikes, a rowing machine, and a bench with dumbbells in various sizes.
Hot Tubs
One of my favourite places to relax on the ship was in the outdoor hot tub, located at the rear of the ship on deck 6. It’s the perfect spot to warm up and wind down after a cold day exploring the ports.
The water was always very warm, but I’d recommend wearing a beanie to cover your ears, as it can get windy up there.
Food & Coffee Breaks
Food quickly became one of the highlights of the Hurtigruten onboard experience, so much so that I dedicated an entire post to what dining is like onboard, including what’s included and what to expect throughout the voyage.
Every day seemed to revolve around the food. I would finish breakfast and already be thinking about what was for lunch, not because breakfast left me unsatisfied but because the food was so good that I was genuinely excited for the next meal. Then after returning from a port stop, dinner felt like a well-earned reward.
At every sitting there was a fantastic variety, with a strong focus on locally sourced Norwegian ingredients that made dining feel thoughtful and high quality.
Between meals, Multe, the ship’s bakery and ice cream shop became a popular stop for coffee, pastries, and sweet treats. It was the perfect place to warm up after time on deck or take a quiet break while watching the scenery pass by.
Final Thoughts On My Hurtigruten Onboard Experience
Overall, I really enjoyed my Hurtigruten onboard experience. Beyond the scenic coastline and port stops, there was plenty to fill each day from relaxing in the lounges and enjoying great food to learning from the expedition team and watching the Northern Lights.
Rather than feeling like a typical cruise packed with constant entertainment, life onboard felt calm and unhurried. There was always something happening if you wanted to join in, but just as much space to slow down, take in the views, and enjoy the journey at your own pace.
If you enjoy travel experiences that blend nature, learning, and comfort without the crowds of larger cruise ships, Hurtigruten is likely to suit you well. For me, it struck a really nice balance between adventure and relaxation, and it’s an experience I’d happily repeat.
If you’re planning your own voyage, you might also find my detailed Hurtigruten Coastal Express review helpful, along with my other guides to dining onboard and exploring ports independently.
