The Coastal Express Route: Bergen to Kirkenes

The Coastal Express is one of Hurtigruten’s Original Voyages. It’s the classic round trip route along the Length of Norway’s coastline, travelling from Bergen – Kirkenes – Bergen (BKB) over 12 days.

This route stops at a total of 34 ports between Bergen and Kirkenes, with stop durations ranging from as little as 10 minutes to as long as 10 hours. It’s important to note that the Hurtigruten ships don’t operate solely as a “cruise like” voyage, but also function as working cargo ships and passenger ferries. Because of this, you’re not actually going to disembark and explore all 34 ports. Many stops are for just 10 to 15 minutes and are purely for loading or unloading cargo. I’ve gone into detail on the longer stops you can expect to explore under ports below. This makes the Coastal Express very different from a traditional cruise experience.

It’s also possible to complete the Coastal Express journey one way, either northbound from Bergen to Kirkenes or southbound from Kirkenes to Bergen. This is a great alternative if you’re short on time, unable to commit to the full round trip, or looking for a lower cost option.

MS Nordkapp Review: The Ship

Nordkapp is Norwegian for “North Cape” and takes its name from the northernmost point of mainland Europe. MS Nordkapp first sailed in 1996 and was refurbished in 2016. The ship has a total capacity of 590 passengers.

While the ship is relatively large, it still feels easy to navigate, and you can comfortably walk around and access all areas without feeling overwhelmed. The multiple decks are connected by both staircases and lifts, making it accessible for passengers with different mobility needs.

Despite its size, MS Nordkapp feels more functional than flashy, which suits the practical nature of the Coastal Express route.

Rather than listing everything here, I’ve covered what daily life onboard actually feels like – from lectures to northern lights in this guide: What It’s Like Onboard Hurtigruten (Daily Life at Sea)

Cabins on MS Nordkapp

Cabins on MS Nordkapp fall into four main categories: expedition suites, arctic superior, polar outside and polar inside. The key differences are cabin size, location, view and included amenities.

Expedition Suites

The expedition suites are the most luxurious and expensive cabin option on board. They offer more space, including a separate lounge seating area. Depending on the suite type, they can accommodate between two and four guests. 

Arctic Superior

Arctic superior cabins are outside facing cabins with a view and are typically located in the most convenient areas of the ship. They also come with a few additional extras, such as a kettle with tea and coffee. These cabins sleep a maximum of two guests.

Polar Outside

Polar outside cabins are also outside facing, with either a window or a porthole, although some might have a restricted view. There are a range of layouts available including double beds, twin beds, or bunk beds. Depending on the configuration, these cabins can accommodate up to three guests.

Polar Inside

Polar inside cabins are the cheapest cabin option available on board. They’re located on the inside of the ship and do not have any windows. Cabins are configured with either twin beds or bunks, with some layouts sleeping up to three people. 

I booked an Arctic Superior cabin for my journey. My initial intention was to book a polar outside cabin, however after seeing the 50% discounts applied during the Black Friday sale, I was swayed into upgrading. After reading through the cabin descriptions, I wanted to ensure I had a window with an unobstructed view, and the Arctic Superior category guaranteed that.

Overall, I was very happy with the arctic superior category, but if I were to book the trip again, price would likely be the deciding factor. The reality is that you don’t spend much time in your cabin, it’s mainly a place to sleep. During the day you’re outside exploring the ports or spending time in other areas of the ship. 

I did really value having a window to enjoy the views, so I’d recommend booking either a polar outside or arctic superior cabin if your budget allows. If you’re still weighing up cabin categories, I’ve shared a detailed breakdown including pros and cons here: Cabins on Hurtigruten: Which Category Is Best?

Facilities on MS Nordkapp

While the Coastal Express isn’t about onboard entertainment in the traditional cruise sense, there are a few key facilities that genuinely improve day to day life onboard.

Outdoor Hot Tubs / Jacuzzi

One of my favourite places to relax on the ship was in the outdoor hot tub, located at the rear of the ship on deck 6. It’s the perfect spot to warm up and wind down after a day spent exploring the ports in the cold. The water was always very warm, but I’d recommend wearing a beanie to cover your ears, as it can get windy.  

There are barriers around the sides that help block much of the wind, but at times it still whips through and your body will feel lovely and warm, while your ears quickly get cold. You should also take care walking around the hot tub area, as ice can sometimes build up on the deck. 

Gym

While I had the best intentions, I must admit I didn’t end up using the gym during my trip. If you’re better at sticking to routine than I am, you’ll find the fitness room on deck 7. It’s small but well equipped, with two treadmills (which offer spectacular views out the windows), two bikes, a rowing machine, and a bench with dumbbells in various sizes.

Laundry

There is a self service laundry on board, located on deck 3. The laundry room has five washing machines (One reserved for crew use only), five dryers as well as an ironing board and iron. 

To use the washing machines, you’ll need to purchase a token from reception. A token costs 30 NOK per load, and the machines are a generous size. There’s no charge for using the dryers. A wash cycle takes approximately 35 minutes, while the dry cycle takes approximately 40 minutes. The washing machines automatically dispense detergent, so there’s no need to purchase or bring your own. 

I was really pleased with the laundry facilities on board, particularly given how affordable they were. I’d used a self service laundromat in Bergen before starting the cruise and paid 79 NOK for the washing machine and another 79 NOK for the dryer. It’s definitely worth keeping this in mind when packing, as doing laundry on board is easy, convenient and inexpensive. 

If you’re looking for some advice on what to pack, you can read my post: What to Pack for a Hurtigruten Cruise.

For more on daily life onboard, including lectures, lounges, northern lights and social atmosphere – I’ve covered it here: What It’s Like Onboard Hurtigruten (Daily Life at Sea)

Dining on Hurtigruten: What’s Included

On the Hurtigruten Coastal Express, full board dining includes breakfast, lunch, and dinner in the main restaurant, Torget. Meals focus on fresh, locally sourced Norwegian ingredients and rotate daily to reflect the regions you’re sailing through.

One of my favourite things about this Hurtigruten trip was the food. All main meals are included, and at every sitting there was a fantastic variety of food on offer, with the majority of the ingredients sourced from local Norwegian food and beverage producers.

The dinners in particular were something special, often incorporating traditional dishes and cooking techniques local to the coastal region we were sailing through that day. It really did feel like a true taste of Norway.

If you’re interested in reading more about my dining experience, including meal by meal breakdown or information about the other restaurants and bars on board, you can read: Dining on Hurtigruten: What’s Included & What It’s Like

Ports on the Coastal Express

The Coastal Express route stops at a total of 34 ports between Bergen and Kirkenes. However, as I’ve mentioned earlier in the post, Hurtigruten ships aren’t traditional cruise ships. They also serve as working cargo ships and passenger ferries, which means many stops only last ten to fifteen minutes while cargo is loaded or unloaded. Below, I’ve outlined the ports you’ll spend extended time and have the chance to explore on land.

Destinations and times in port are subject to seasonal change. I completed my trip in Winter, and I’ve detailed the times I personally spent in port. For your own trip, check the departure schedule, this can be found on the Hurtigruten website, printed onboard or in the Hurtigruten app. You should also note that all times are approximate and may change depending on weather and cargo operations.

Hurtigruten also has an app which includes the daily schedule, port times and excursion details making it easy to stay informed and plan throughout the journey.

If you’re deciding whether to book shore excursions or explore independently, many of these ports are easy to visit on foot. I’ve shared a separate guide covering things to do at Hurtigruten ports without excursions, including what’s realistic within the time you have in port.

Excursions on the Coastal Express

Hurtigruten offers a wide range of optional organised excursions to help you make the most of exploring selected ports along the Coastal Express route. The time of year you travel will impact which excursions are available, but you can generally choose from around 40 different activities.

Excursions range from short city walks and cultural visits to longer, once in a lifetime experiences such as Northern Lights safaris, husky sledding, whale watching and trips to the North Cape. These tours are coordinated directly with the ship’s timetable, meaning the crew will wait for excursion groups if delays occur, something that offers peace of mind in remote and often very weather dependent locations.

This level of coordination also means that, given the limited time in port, some excursions may start in one port but finish in the next. In these cases, a bus transports you to the next port to meet the ship. 

That said, excursions aren’t mandatory. Many ports are centrally located and easy to explore independently on foot, especially if you’re happy to keep things simple or prefer a slower pace. Excursions can be booked in advance of your trip or once you’re onboard. Typically, the booking deadline is midday the day before the excursion departs.

I personally found the cost of many excursions to be quite expensive. As a result, I spent most of my time wandering the towns, visiting viewpoints and museums independently. I’ve covered what you can realistically do independently without a pre-booked tour in a separate guide: Things to do at Hurtigruten ports without an excursion.

The one excursion I booked, and would highly recommend was dog sledding in Tromsø. Dog sledding in the arctic is truly one of those ‘one in a lifetime experiences’. This was actually my second time dog sledding in Tromsø, as I was lucky enough to do it on a tour six years earlier. Of all the incredible travel experiences I’ve had over the years, I still consider dog sledding to be one of the best things I’ve ever done. If it’s within your budget, it’s absolutely worth considering and, in my opinion, a must-do when visiting Northern Norway.

Pricing: Is Hurtigruten Worth the Cost?

Hurtigruten isn’t a budget way to travel, before booking I think it’s important to understand exactly what you’re paying for. Pricing varies significantly depending on the season, ship, cabin type and whether you’re travelling northbound, southbound or completing the full round trip. If you’re flexible with dates or direction, it’s well worth checking multiple options before booking, as prices can differ significantly.

What is included in the price?

When booking a Hurtigruten Coastal Express voyage, your fare typically includes:

• Accommodation onboard for the duration of the journey
• Full board dining (breakfast, lunch and dinner in the main restaurant) 
• Daily lectures and onboard activities led by the expedition team
• Port calls at 34 destinations along the route
• Access to onboard facilities such as lounges, hot tubs and the gym

When I was planning my trip, I compared the cost of booking flights, accommodation and point to point transport between cities like Bergen and Tromsø. Once I factored in average accommodation prices in northern Norway and return flights, the cost of the Coastal Express started to make a lot more sense.

Dining value in an expensive country

Norway is a relatively expensive country, particularly when it comes to eating out. Even casual meals can add up quickly, especially in places like Tromsø or the Lofoten Islands. Having full board dining included for the entire journey and at a genuinely high standard, removed a lot of the daily decision making and helped control overall costs.

While it’s not a luxury cruise, the quality and variety of the meals onboard exceeded my expectations and felt like good value given the local sourcing and regional menus.

What isn’t included in the price?

There are some additional costs to be aware of:

• Optional organised excursions, such as the dog sledding
• Alcoholic drinks and soft drinks (You can have water, coffee and juice served complimentary at specific times)
• Specialty dining venues and bars

Excursions in particular, can add up quickly, it’s entirely possible to keep spending under control by exploring ports independently, I’ve outlined what’s realistic in each port here: Things to Do at Hurtigruten Ports Without an Excursion

Is Hurtigruten Worth It?

Overall, I think the Coastal Express voyage represents good value when you consider that it combines transport, accommodation and meals for 12 days in Norway – a country where travel costs can escalate quickly. Booking these elements separately, particularly in places like Tromsø or Bergen, would add up fast. While it’s not a cheap trip, the convenience and what’s included make the pricing easy to justify.

Whether Hurtigruten is “worth it” really comes down to what kind of traveller you are. If you value scenery, slow and authentic travel, and you want to see remote parts of Norway without complex planning logistics – then I think you’ll agree that it’s worth it.

For me, Hurtigruten felt like a once in a lifetime journey rather than a holiday. While it did stretch my budget, the combination of scenery, food and access to parts of Norway I’d never reach otherwise made it feel like money well spent.

Preparing for your Hurtigruten Cruise

To avoid information overload in this review, I’ve broken out several in-depth guides with specific planning and preparation topics in more detail

Planning & logistics

• Hurtigruten Coastal Express Planning Guide: Arrival in Bergen, Boarding & Disembarkation

Onboard experience

• My Hurtigruten Onboard Experience: Daily Life at Sea on the Coastal Express
• Dining on Hurtigruten: What’s Included & What It’s Like

Cabins & comfort

• Hurtigruten Cabins: Which Category Is Best?
• Hurtigruten Packing List: What to Pack for Winter in Norway

Ports & excursions

• Things to Do at Hurtigruten Ports Without an Excursion

Hurtigruten Coastal Express Review FAQs

Is Hurtigruten a cruise or a ferry?

Hurtigruten is both, and that’s what makes it different.

The ships operate as working coastal ferries, transporting cargo and local passengers between ports, while also functioning as expedition style cruise ships for travellers completing longer journeys. Because of this, the experience feels far less commercial than a traditional cruise and much more focused on scenery, authenticity and slow travel.

What’s included on a Hurtigruten Coastal Express voyage?

A Hurtigruten Coastal Express fare typically includes:

• Accommodation onboard for the full journey
• Full board dining (breakfast, lunch and dinner in the main restaurant)
• Access to onboard facilities such as lounges, hot tubs and the gym
• Daily lectures and activities led by the expedition team
• Port calls at destinations along the route

Optional excursions, drinks outside set times, and specialty dining venues are not included.

Do you get off at every port on Hurtigruten?

No. Although the Coastal Express stops at 34 ports, many stops only last 10 to 15 minutes and are purely for cargo and passenger transfers.

You only disembark at selected ports where the ship stays longer, typically ranging from around one hour to several hours. These are the ports where you’ll realistically have time to explore independently or join an organised excursion. 

What is the best time of year to do the Hurtigruten Coastal Express?

There’s no single best time, it depends on what you want to see and experience.

• Winter (November – March): Best chance of seeing the Northern Lights, snowy scenery, fewer tourists, but limited daylight.
• Spring (April – May): Increasing daylight, quieter ports, and the landscape starting to thaw.
• Summer (June – August): Midnight sun, milder weather, longer time in ports, but higher prices and more passengers. 
• Autumn (September – October): Fewer crowds, autumn colours, and the Northern Lights beginning to return.

I travelled in winter and loved the snow and cosy atmosphere, but every season offers something different.

Is Hurtigruten suitable for solo travellers?

Yes, and it’s actually a great option for solo travellers.

The atmosphere on board is relaxed and social without feeling forced. It’s easy to chat to other passengers in lounges, during meals or on excursions, but there’s also plenty of space to keep to yourself.

What is the average age of passengers on Hurtigruten?

Most passengers tend to be middle aged to older adults, particularly couples and solo travellers. That said, there’s a wide age range on board, I did see some younger travellers and a small number of families.

What is the best cabin on Hurtigruten?

There’s no single “best” cabin, it depends on your budget and priorities.

• Expedition Suites: The most space and comfort, but very expensive
• Arctic Superior: A great mid-range option with unobstructed windows and added comforts
• Polar Outside: Good value if you want natural light
• Polar Inside: Cheapest cabin and perfectly fine if you don’t plan to spend much time in your cabin

I booked an Arctic Superior cabin and appreciated the window, but if I were booking again, price would likely be the deciding factor.

Does Hurtigruten cater to dietary requirements?

Yes. Hurtigruten caters well to most common dietary requirements, including vegetarian, vegan and gluten free diets.

Meals are clearly labelled in the main restaurant, and there were always multiple options available. If you have allergies or more specific needs, it’s best to notify Hurtigruten when booking or checking with the crew in the restaurant.

Will I get seasick on Hurtigruten?

Most people don’t experience significant seasickness on the Coastal Express.

The route follows Norway’s coastline and spends much of the journey in sheltered waters rather than open sea. That said, rough weather can occur, particularly in winter or when crossing open exposed stretches. The open sea stretches are noted in the daily schedule, so you can plan ahead. 

I’m someone who generally suffers from motion sickness and while there were a few occasions I felt a little unwell, I was never physically sick. I did take travel sickness tablets as a precaution for some of the open ocean crossings. 

Is there wifi and phone signal onboard?

Yes there is wifi and phone signal onboard.

The wifi was occasionally slow but always functional. There were a few short periods without phone signal, though I rarely noticed as wifi was available.

To avoid roaming charges, I highly recommend using an Airalo eSim. I’ve used them in over 10 countries to stay connected from the moment I land

What languages are spoken onboard Hurtigruten?

English is the main onboard language.

Many crew members also speak Norwegian and other European languages. All announcements were made in English, Norwegian, German and French.

Is there a dress code on Hurtigruten?

There’s no formal dress code.

Most passengers dress casually and practically during the day, especially for excursions and time on deck. Comfort and layers are far more important than style.